"John_Harbinson" (jensenkid97)
11/03/2015 at 13:15 • Filed to: None
0
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"John_Harbinson" (jensenkid97)
11/03/2015 at 13:15 • Filed to: None | 0
| 15 |
My brakes are ducked. And I can’t get the ducking rotor off for the life of me. Torched it, penetrating fluid’ed it, etc, and it won’t budge.
JawzX2, Boost Addict. 1.6t, 2.7tt, 4.2t
> John_Harbinson
11/03/2015 at 13:17 |
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It’s a GM product, that whole front suspension, knuckle, wheel bearing, and brake parts can’t cost more than a couple hundred bucks...
/sort of not kidding.
RallyWrench
> John_Harbinson
11/03/2015 at 13:23 |
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What are you, chicken? ;)
Use more power. Hit the thing with a hammer. A large one, if necessary. No kidding, a good blow on the outer edges of the rotor will often break the rust between it and the hub.
64Mali
> John_Harbinson
11/03/2015 at 13:27 |
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Big F***ing hammer. I’ve had to use a sledge to get drums off before.
LongbowMkII
> John_Harbinson
11/03/2015 at 13:35 |
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x2 on BFH. What’s the worst that can happen? (swing away from your body)
Wrong Wheel Drive (41%)
> John_Harbinson
11/03/2015 at 13:37 |
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Getting rotors off is the worst! Have you tried a big sledge hammer yet? Will certainly result in rotors needing to be replaced afterwards but it looks like those are being changed here. No matter how much of a struggle it is, at least they aren't drums!
Skamanda
> John_Harbinson
11/03/2015 at 13:45 |
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Geez man, do you park your truck in salt water, or something?
Meatcoma
> John_Harbinson
11/03/2015 at 13:46 |
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Usually they are stuck right at the hub, soak it down good. I took a block of wood and a hammer and layed under mine and hit outwards to knock them off.
Needmoargarage
> John_Harbinson
11/03/2015 at 14:06 |
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Variations of this trick has always worked for me when torches and hammers fail:
Shift24
> 64Mali
11/03/2015 at 14:28 |
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About to say the same thing a BFH. A nail hammer aint going to work. An air hammer might work too but not always.
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JawzX2, Boost Addict. 1.6t, 2.7tt, 4.2t
> Skamanda
11/03/2015 at 15:02 |
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Seconded. Even In Vermont that would be “jeeez, lookit this!” Moment in the shop... I mean, it doesn’t look dangerous... Yet...
BREADwagon
> John_Harbinson
11/03/2015 at 15:39 |
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My dad taught me a trick, the first time he told me I doubted that it would work....but it’s amazing for removing seized on rotors.
Take a metal carpenters hammer, and wail at the hat in between the studs. Don’t hit the surface of the rotor yet, just the hat. Keep working your way around in between each pair of studs, a bunch of rust will fall out. Spend like 5 minutes at least doing this, keep hitting it!
Then, when no more rust falls out, take a dead-blow hammer and start wailing on the rotor face, double hitting the top, bottom, side to side on the outside, then the same on the inside face of the rotor.
You’ll probably only have to do that ‘rep’ once, but after 2 or 3 times, even the most seized rotor will fall off.
MM54
> John_Harbinson
11/03/2015 at 19:05 |
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If you have access to a 6’ digging bar, you can pry against the knuckle and back of the rotor, give it a good yank, turn it 1/4 turn, repeat. I’m assuming you’ve already hammered the hell out of it from all angles and with excessive force. If you aren’t convinced you’re ruining the wheel bearing, you’re not hitting it hard enough.
Stef Schrader
> John_Harbinson
11/03/2015 at 23:38 |
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Appropriate use of duck.
gmporschenut also a fan of hondas
> John_Harbinson
11/04/2015 at 06:36 |
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I’d be careful with heat. YOu don’t want to fry the bearing grease or weaken the studs. I hammer the curved section, so as not to risk hitting a stud. Also spray the piss out of it with penetrating oil. If you can spray behind even better.
also I put a super thin coat of anti-seize on the face of the hub before putting the new rotor on.
Jayvincent
> John_Harbinson
11/04/2015 at 19:20 |
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Pretty sure that’s rust-welded, bro.